In the last post you could see the half sections of the frames leaning against the out shed wall. I used 3" by 6" #1 Douglas Fir for the frames. The first thing I did was to build a table out of 2 - 4' by 8' plywood sheets to layout the frames from the table of offsets George provides on the plans. A little math is required for this operation. You must subtract the rabbet height from your baseline and always measure from the center of the keel. All measurement are in feet,inches and eights 5-0-4 would be 5 feet 0 inches and 4 eights (4/8"). Once the table was made I marked out all the frames for one side. Since I built them in the garage space was limited so I simply made two sets for each frame and made sure after they were beveled that the short sides of the bevels lined up. Worked well. This shows frame parts cut and getting beveled. The amount of bevel varies for each frame and it also varies from the bottom section to the upper frame section. Marking each frame in many places is a good idea.
In the last post you could see the half sections of the frames leaning against the out shed wall. I used 3" by 6" #1 Douglas Fir for the frames. The first thing I did was to build a table out of 2 - 4' by 8' plywood sheets to layout the frames from the table of offsets George provides on the plans. A little math is required for this operation. You must subtract the rabbet height from your baseline and always measure from the center of the keel. All measurement are in feet,inches and eights 5-0-4 would be 5 feet 0 inches and 4 eights (4/8"). Once the table was made I marked out all the frames for one side. Since I built them in the garage space was limited so I simply made two sets for each frame and made sure after they were beveled that the short sides of the bevels lined up. Worked well. This shows frame parts cut and getting beveled. The amount of bevel varies for each frame and it also varies from the bottom section to the upper frame section. Marking each frame in many places is a good idea.
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